Friday, September 19, 2008

Week 1 of training for Deadpoint

Start training and get ready for Deadpoint!

Begin with working endurance:


Climbing sustained for 10-15min.
Intervals of 3-5min. on the wall climbing for 45 sec. and resting for 15 sec. stay on wall

Focusing on proper resting technique:
Avoiding the pump
Technique Work
Standing on feet
Hanging straight armed

General Strengthening using the Hang-board: builds forearm, wrist, and tendon strength
Start with jug holds and work into the crimps and slopers.
Hang for 10-15 sec. 3 sets each hold.
Core
Wrist curls and pronators/ supinators

Ask Coach Chris or a Front staff member if you have any questions. Have fun! Drink a Protein Shake from Front Mart within 30 minutes after your workout to insure proper recovery. If you don't recover properly, you won't get full benefits from the workout. Don't forget to stay hydrated during your session.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Awesome. There are so many different, and conflicting, climbing training plans out there it's hard to know who to listen to.

A couple of questions:

Sustained climbing? Is that just low intensity climbing to focus on warming up? Do you just basically travel the wall for 10-15 minutes?

How difficult should the interval climbing be? Just enough to avoid pumping?

The Front Climbing Club said...

Great question.

Yes, sustained climbing is an effort that you can maintain for the duration of each set. It may be a little harder than warm up intensity.

The "intervals" refers to duration of time in this case. For 3-5 minutes, climb for 45 seconds, then rest for 15 seconds by stopping at a jug and shaking out, but staying on the wall. You stay on the wall for the entire 3-5 minutes. Do as many sets of this necessary to total 10-15 minutes of time on the wall.

You can stay on longer than 5 minutes per set if you like or are able, but be careful to avoid getting so pumped that you can't finish the workout. It will take some experimentation.

If you feel yourself getting pumped, try to find a section with bigger foot holds or where you can stem to give you a chance to shake the pump out of your arms. It's a good idea to pick out this recovery section before you start climbing. This also gets you in the habit of strategizing and visualizing how you will climb a boulder problem or route.

5-20 minutes of cardio before the climbing workout can help to get the blood flowing too.